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Knowledge Of Wine

Winemaker Jim Clendenen was one of a kind

wineadmin by wineadmin
May 25, 2021
in White Wines
0

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Winemaker Jim Clendenen stands in the Papa Joe’s kitchen with owner Jeff Bruno in April 2008. [Phil Masturzo/Beacon Journal file photo]

I acquired a telephone name the opposite day at 6:30 a.m. It was my good good friend and winemaker Michael Oravecz. He by no means calls me at that hour. The information was intestine wrenching.

Oravecz referred to as to say our good good friend Jim Clendenen had handed away in his sleep the evening earlier than at age 68. I felt sick after listening to the information. I 

I wanted a distraction and determined to move to my rental to complete tiling the toilet. At 7 that evening, I drove to Heinen’s in Hudson to purchase no matter bottles of Au Bon Climat the shop had on the shelf. Once I acquired residence, I warmed up some leftover pork tenderloin, opened a bottle of Clendenen’s 2018 pinot noir and headed to my cellar for some “pigs and pinot,” as Jim as soon as mentioned to me.

I took just a few bites, sipped on some wine, and cried. I stared at my favourite picture of Jim that hangs on the cellar wall. I took it in 2003, the primary time we met in Los Angeles.

I’ll at all times be indebted to Papa Joe’s proprietor Jeff Bruno. Our dialog in his wine store virtually 20 years in the past was the inspiration for a 2003 Beacon Journal story that I pitched about Akron-area winemakers in California. One of many 4 vintners profiled was Akron native Jim Clendenen.

I used to be lucky to have the ability to fly out to Los Angeles in 2003 to satisfy up with Clendenen who was pouring his wines at a Wolfgang Puck fundraiser for the homeless at Common Studios. A vineyard publicist had informed me on the telephone that I might have quarter-hour to {photograph} Clendenen and that I must depart earlier than the occasion began. Clendenen graciously gave me greater than sufficient time for photographs and insisted I keep for the occasion. He saved my glass full all evening and even drove me again to my resort on the finish of the night.

That evening was the beginning of an exquisite friendship that would come with many dinners at one another’s homes. There was at all times time for a highway journey to Columbus the place I might meet up with Clendenen on the annual Vanguard Wines commerce present. It was nice to listen to just a few of his tales and style his new releases.

Clendenen had the center of a lion and the mane to match. His generosity was seemingly limitless. He traveled the world over 250 days a 12 months, pouring his Burgundian-style wines, constructing his model, together with the status of Santa Barbara wine nation. He by no means forgot the place he got here from.

“Each hour he was right here, he wished to do as a lot as he may to assist Akron,” Bruno mentioned.

Clendenen got here again to Akron for charity occasions for Summa Hospital, Prayers for Maria and the Akron Artwork Museum. 

“Jim was one of many single biggest contributors to the Akron Wine Public sale within the historical past of the Akron Artwork Museum,” mentioned Bruno, who additionally serves on the wine public sale committee for the museum. “He put his coronary heart and soul into it.”

Clendenen would typically double the variety of his vineyard packages because the bidding heated up, and he even paid his personal journey to Akron for the occasion.

“His coronary heart was at all times first,” Bruno mentioned. “His giving was unrelenting, and he gave with none strings connected.”.

Good good friend and fellow winemaker Drew Neiman often referred to Clendenen as a “rock star.” He phoned the identical day to see if I had heard the information of Jim’s passing.

“Clendenen was so superior,” Neiman mentioned as his voice light. “Each single time I used to be with him was memorable.”

Neiman had simply booked a flight for the day to Louisville, Kentucky, for the next Monday. He was invited to affix a handful of Clendenen’s shut buddies for barbecue, bourbon and somewhat wine. They deliberate to inform their favourite tales of the wine icon.

“I wished to be round individuals who knew Jim so we are able to swap tales of him,” Neiman mentioned. “I’ve spent quite a lot of time with these individuals and Jim collectively.”

Here is a bottle of 2016 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir “La Bauge Au-deuss,” which means “Wild Burgundian Party Upstairs.” [Photo by Drew Neiman]

The gathering was on the residence of Tim Stratman, who used to promote Au Bon Climat wines within the Louisville space. Gordon Jackson, common supervisor of Previous City Liquor, and bourbon icon Julian “Pappy” Van Winkle had been a few of the shut buddies invited.

“Jim cherished his bourbon,” Jackson mentioned. “We’re going to get along with a few of his individuals and sip on some bourbon, and drink somewhat wine.”

Everybody invited was required to carry a bottle of Au Bon Climat. Neiman packed a bottle of Clendenen’s “La Bauge Au-dessus” which interprets to “Wild Burgundian Social gathering Upstairs.”

“It’s the place I’d prefer to think about he’s proper now,” Neiman mentioned.

It could be a refined trace as to why acclaimed wine critic Jancis Robinson nicknamed the California winemaker with the flamboyant shirts the “Wild Boy.”

The primary phrase used to explain Clendenen is at all times “beneficiant.”

“His gifting was unimaginable,” Bruno mentioned.

Clendenden“s impression on the world of wine can be lengthy lasting.

“He is a one-of-a-kind taking pictures star,” he mentioned.  “We’ll by no means see anybody else like that.”

The wine store at Papa Joe’s is stocked with a lot of Clendenen’s wines. Heinen’s in Hudson carries one pinot noir, River Service provider has considered one of his chardonnays, as does Buehler’s in Wooster, and DeVitis Italian Market in Akron shares his pinot gris/pinot white mix.

Let’s elevate our glasses and have a toast to Jim.

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